Monkey Jockeys and Camel Races...

If the title doesn't just say it all.... 

I have friends in town visiting this week, which is AWESOME!  S was my roommate my first year in Morocco and we've been friends for the 12+ years since.  She married C almost a year ago and they are currently living back in Morocco while C does research for his dissertation (Mr. Smarty-for real). 

S and C waiting for their camel ride.

I decided I needed to stuff my "Qatar" isn't my favorite place" attitude and have an adventure or two while they are here.  A had mentioned the possibility of watching some camel races a while back and my initial response was not favorable.  I think it was more the timing that the actual event, but I decided to research it a bit and take S and C (along with P and M - home school field trip!).  I found out that the camels train and race daily starting around 9:30 am during their season, which started around the middle of October (it's too hot before this).  We packed up some snacks and water and set off.  I didn't have directions and GPS had no idea, but we made it without a problem... Apparently camel racing is a BIG deal and there were plenty of signs to get us there.

When we arrived we saw several groups of camels either walking or trotting around with their trainers, but there weren't really any spectators.  Being the middle of the week, I wasn't really sure if there would be a crowd...  Um no.. no one.. 

We drove around a bit and then stopped at a building that actually had a few Qataris and Saudis going in and out (you can tell by their thobes - outfits and headpieces).  I wasn't going to get out and chat it up with a bunch of men, but C hopped out and within seconds was shaking hands with a Qatari gentleman, who informed him that there were no camel races today (booo), but that if we waited 15 minutes, he show us around (score!).  We agreed to wait.

While we were waiting, we got to see several groups of camels who were walking and/or training.  The camels used to be ridden by young children in races (some as young as 4), but this practice was outlawed a few years ago, and now they are jockeyed by mechanical monkeys who are controlled via remote control.  (A was in school today, but is VERY much looking forward to seeing this!)

Training the camels.

There's a trainer on the adult and then two babies (in blue blankets) being trained for each adult.

After about 10 minutes he arrived back and told us to follow him in his SUV.  We weaved in and out of buildings for a while and ended up and his camel station (small house, some fencing and sheltered areas for the camels).  This is only the winter place for the camels and they don't race during the hot parts of the year.  He led us around the back of the house where we were met by several men on his training staff and a handful of camels.  There were no women, but all the men were actually really kind to us, probably because we had C leading the adventure.  The camel owner (H) immediately wanted to get us all up on the camels, but P and M were having NONE of it and were terrified.  C and S were hoisted up onto the camels and led around a bit. 

H's front camel corral.

Love this picture with the mosque in the background.

It was so fun to see all of his camels, and to see C and S up on them (I haven't seen camels up close or ridden them since my time in the Sarah Desert when I lived in Morocco..).  I decided not to get up on them because P and M were pretty scared; camels are a lot taller than you might think. 

H posed them like this for a picture.

This is how the camels allow the rider to dismount, front first is a little scary.

H loved S and put her back up for a second ride.

After the camel riding was done, H grabbed us all and the picture taking began.  The staff guys, H, S, C, and I all took ample pictures, which seemed to thrill H..  He was so hospitable.  Some of the helpers pulled out a large carpet, brought it into a smaller pen with two baby camels and put it down for us in the shade.  We all took our shoes off and rested in the shade while C and H chatted in Arabic.  C did a GREAT job of translating!  One of the staff brought us tea and water, which was great, because though it's late November, it was pretty hot. 

Picture time.

H and the ladies..  (and M)

Two of the babies.

Tea time.

P on the carpet - camels in the background.

Tired and hot babies.

M with his tea.  The kid loves tea.

Their noon day routine needed to get underway, so we made our way back to the SUV and back to Doha.  It was a great adventure and we got to experience some Qatari hospitality and learn about camels and camel racing, which is HUGE in this area of the world.  Here are some fun facts about camels:

-Racing camels are mainly from Oman
-Camels are VERY expensive - Omani thoroughbreds can command from $155,000 to $260,000
-Camels have REALLY cool legs..  (see the dismount picture)
-There are two kinds of camels:  Dromedary - has one hump and Bactrian - has two humps and is endangered.
-Camels have a third eye lid to protect they eyes from sand, it covers the eye ball and is nearly transparent so the camel can see through it.  I wish I had that.
-The hump(s) does not store water, it is actually filled with fat allowing the camel to go without food for a month.
-Camels are born without a hump and only develop it when their diet changes from milk to food.
-When running, camels can reach bursts of 40 mph, but can sustain speeds of 25 mph! 

It was a very unique adventure indeed!

Carving, Costumes, and Candy

Happy Halloween!! 

Let's be honest, Halloween is a bit of weird "holiday..."  With origins dating way way back, Halloween is thought to have roots in the Celtic festival Samhain.  The ancient Gaels believed that on October 31, the boundaries between the living and dead (worlds) sort of overlapped, allowing the dead to come back to life a create havoc like sickness or the damaging of crops.  Large bonfires were built, and people dressed in costumes to mimic and/or appease the evil spirits.. Weird..  And yet, even in Doha... we dressed up and went knocking on doors (marked with pumpkins) bellowing the age old, "trick or treat!"

This was really our first "holiday" in Doha (and it isn't celebrated here) and the kids had a great time. Yesterday, we had a few little friends over for play time, a craft, a snack, and a fun story (Room on the Broom). 

M and his pumpkin craft.

Halloween crafty time.

Today, we started the day by carving our pumpkins, it's still in the mid-upper 90s every day, so carving before this would've made for some yucky pumpkins.  In the afternoon, went to a party thrown by a couple of the local schools (A's school among them) at our compound's park.  The kids did crafts and played with friends (all in costumes) before taking to the streets (of our compound) for some fun trick or treating.  We were so exhausted that A had to come back for the car to avoid carrying both kids all the way home. 

Some Halloween similarities and differences:

Similarities:  We dressed up, carved pumpkins, went to a Halloween party, trick or treated, got WAY too much candy, and the kids are passed out in their beds from all the fun...

Differences:  We paid just under $50.00 for two med/small pumpkins!  We waited to carve them until the day of because of the heat.  There was no pre-planning for weather concerns, except to bring enough water to drink (it was 90 degrees after dark).  We had a pot luck at the park and people we all in summer clothing still.  There are no "jumbo" bags of candy to buy or major Halloween displays (although we did see a few stores with Halloween items).  We have trick or treated for the past several years (since M was born) with our good friends in Ft. Wayne and this was our first year going without them...

So, while for most of Doha, today was any ordinary Friday (remember our weekend is Friday/Saturday), inside our little corner of the world, we enjoyed a bit of normalcy. 

Cleaning out the "guts".

Daddy tapping the nose out.

M was NOT impressed again this year.

This girl... such a love.

silly

Queen Elsa

Our Elsa and basketball star (thanks Ms. A for the Elsa costume and Mimi for the bags!)

Life seems pretty "normal..."

I got a really lovely message from an old high school friend yesterday.  I haven't seen or spoken to her since high school, but was totally excited to "catch up" via facebook stalking...  Her message was so unexpected and heart felt.  One thing she said though,  sparked this post (Well done H!).  She said that she'd been looking through my life since high school (via facebook) and was so interested that she read this entire blog (now that's a compliment).  She went on to say that while living oversees isn't for her, she was glad it was for us and that her life seemed so simple in comparison.  And then it hit me..  life here seems pretty simple and "normal." 

Stick with me here... 

Yesterday, we woke up (A is gone for work when we get up).  We snuggled and ate breakfast (cereal and soy milk with strawberries).  The kids played restaurant while I laminate some home school stuff and we did a little mental math.  Our little friend H came over (she's a 5 month old sweetie pie and we watch her for a couple of hours a day).  We played, ate lunch (M had a hot dog with chips and P had pasta with cheese) and the kids took a nap.  I read and blogged during this rare quiet moment.  H left, we bought a car (YES), ate pizza, watched Veggie Tales, and went to bed. 

Most days are like this.  We get groceries, I do laundry, kids fight, play, and give me smooches, we have friends that drop in, I use the on-line classifieds to get good deals...  It seems simple and normal mostly.  And maybe that's why living oversees works for us.  Life Stateside didn't seem normal or simple to us in the nearly seven years we were there.  We enjoyed our time there, enjoyed our friends and family, and enjoyed the ease with which we could "get things done."  But, this just seems normal to us. 

The learning, adapting, changing, and growing that takes place so often just seems normal.  

Go back to the second paragraph and I'll rewrite it...   A is gone for work because he leaves at 6 am.  Most things start really early, including school because it is so blazing hot for most of the year that people want to get started early.  We ate cereal with soy milk and strawberries, which are SO expensive because everything is imported due to the climate ($7 a container of berries and about $5 a box of frosties [think frosted flakes]).  I borrowed a laminator from a friend because mine was left in the States due to voltage differences.  I got some lesson stuff laminated, including a set of nesting bowls that we're using for a geography lesson - the largest one has the world, next Asia, next Qatar, next Doha, next our street and my son announces, "everyone lives in Asia.."

You see where this is going... 

It seems simple to me because I just filter out the rewritten paragraph stuff and stick to the basics.  We ate, things got done..  Are we weird?..  Maybe so.  Or maybe we're just cut from a different fabric than most people...at least that's how I'd like to think of it. 

Thanks for the message H, you inspired a post and made me think!!  By the way, can you believe it's been almost 20 years??? 

Not all sunshine and roses...

There's a lot of fun and excitement that goes into moving to an entirely new place.  The sites, sounds, smells... it's all new.  Very little is familiar and every day is a new experience.  It's great... until it isn't.  Sometimes familiar is gone and becomes longed for.  Sometimes the new is annoying, inefficient and ... you know.. stupid. 

I remember when I first arrived in Morocco.  I was a single woman, 22 years-old, and had never lived out of the country (or my home state for that matter).  My initial excitement didn't last long as I was fairly ill-informed about life (There were only 6/8 weeks between finding out about the job and leaving.).  I didn't speak Arabic (dialect) or much French, didn't know much about life in a Muslim country, had never lived in a big city (I was in a city of 5-7 million people), and on and on...  But it was just me.  I remember coming home after walking a few blocks to buy groceries and collapsing on my bed for hours, certain I would never leave my apartment again...let alone finish out my 2 year contract at the school where I taught. 

I needed to buy some chicken as I was making chicken noodle soup and apple pie (VERY American comfort food)..  A whole chicken (feathers and all) was presented to me when I muttered, "poulet??" to the man.  I gasped, he chuckled and took the chicken into the back and de-feathered/de-headed it.  He brought it out in a bag for me.  I paid him what I was sure was too much for a chicken, gathered my other ingredients from several other vendors, and walked back home amid random men making, "kisk kisk" noises.. 

My thoughts ran like this:  The chicken cost too much, it is probably diseased from not being kept cool, why can't they refrigerate chicken?  Why can't everything be in ONE grocery STORE? Why is it so hot outside and I have to wear clothes that completely cover!?  Why are the men here SO annoying????  Why is EVERYTHING stupid???

And that's when I remembered the little talk we had about culture stress during our first (jet-lagged) week in country..  I recall thinking that "I wouldn't go through that..", but clearly I had run head long into culture shock.  Over the following five years I went through many cycles of culture stress.  I would get annoyed, avoid everything possible, decide everything was stupid, then... realize that although things were "different," they were not "wrong." This in NO way means I didn't like the culture, people, etc...  I LOVE Morocco, the culture, food, people, etc. 

Culture stress (shock) runs through a natural cycle and there are many different explanations of the same thing.  The one I like the most is:  fun, flight, fight, fit.

1. Fun: The excitement and adventure of experiencing new people, things, and opportunities.
2. Flight: Disorientation brings the urge to avoid everything and everyone that is different.
3. Fight: The temptation to judge people and things that are different as bad or foolish.
4. Fit: Creative interaction with the new culture that includes a willingness to understand and embrace.
   

Moving to Qatar, I had many expectations that I now realize were... wrong.  I expected Morocco.. sort of.  It was my only frame of reference for over seas living.  I longed for the culture that welcomed me in, poured mint tea into beautiful little cups, served little yummy pastries, showed me what hospitality is all about, and so much more.  That is not Qatar.  Qataris don't seem to run in the same circles as ex-pats.  I see them at malls, on the streets, A teaches them... but that's where the interaction ends.  I haven't been here long enough to really grasp the who, what, why of the culture and possibly I just won't be able to.  I didn't realize how much I expected... 

I can say that adjusting to life overseas with children is WAY (did I mention a lot) different then adjusting on your own.  I'm not sure I had any idea what to expect in terms of my children adjusting to life here.  Children tend not to begin where we do.  The "fun" stage isn't.. fun.  They are leaving everything familiar and they didn't have a choice.  We talked to them, allowed them to have opinions (that we of course influenced with promised adventure), went through leaving emotions with them, allowed them to pack mostly everything they wanted, and tried to make sure they were heard.  But, they don't have a choice.  We made the choice for them, and obviously felt it was the best thing for our whole family. 

Our children are quite young, and so they don't display a lot of the "normal" culture (relocation) stress that adults do, but there are little signs that they are struggling:  P gets tummy aches if we drive at night, they need a lot more pj days and "down days", they bicker a lot more, they play games where friends/family from the States are the characters (and usually they are visiting), they want routines (like bedtime) to be exactly the same, they need a run down of the day (every..single.. day), they DISLIKE very much that adults here call them baby (hi baby!!!  constantly), and there are other subtle behaviors/annoyances... 

They LOVE certain aspects of living here too:  they love the community here, the open-door policy we have with friends (and that they use it), they want to know who is coming to eat with us, tea with us, be with us every day.. it's pretty unacceptable for M if people aren't coming over, they are starting to love the weather (now that we are only in the mid 90's!!). 

It's a lot of mental work for A and I to keep up with what they need, but we're happy to do it as we feel they are making a very good transition, and let's be honest, they didn't ask for it... 

As for A and I, we're doing ok.  I think I struggle more with being here (dealing with unmet expectations is rough) than he does (or maybe I just show it more).  I had my first "everything is stupid" days a couple of weeks ago.  The morning went fine, and then I got a text:  medical commission at 2:30...  ugh.  For some reason, there was an issue with my medical check when we arrived (I'm writing a separate post on the process.) and we had to go back down to see what the issue was.  Now, keep in mind this isn't just down the road.  It's across town, in ridiculous traffic, in the industrial area (not my favorite place), at a place that promises to be crawling with people every day...all day.  It isn't quick.  It isn't efficient. 

I walked in and was directed to room 118.  I sat and waited on a bench next to some (very smelly..) men, until I realized that waiting wasn't the protocol.  I walked into an office, where a lady told me that something was "wrong" with my chest x-ray and I needed a TB test.  "Ok, which room do I need to go to for that?"... "no, no, no mam, not today.  We are off all next week, you have to come back in ten days, then come back two days later.."  All the blood in my body rushed to my face with each pounding step I took towards the door that led me to fresh air (100 degrees.. but at least fresh).  I was greeted by A, M, and a crying P (she'd been crying for an hour with an ear ache, but we HAD to go to the medical commission...).

Needless to say, when I got into the car, anything nice or positive about living here went right out the window into the SLOWEST MOVING TRAFFIC EVER!  I remember uttering the words, "this is stupid.. everything is stupid..  take me back to Morocco.. at least things are "normal" there.." (lest I forget my chicken ordeal)  I, of course, went on and on (I'll spare you the rant.).  We stopped at the clinic on the way home, where the doctor said P did have a raging ear infection and prescribed her some drops, cream, and liquid pain killers (it seems we always get medicine in threes here).  Her ear infection shoved us into week three of sick kids and/or mom (illness - another common problem when transitioning). 

It was only when we arrived home that I realized I should have seen it coming...  I was getting short tempered, tired, irritable, reclusive, critical...  And we had hit the magical 6 week mark.  The honeymoon was over.  I let myself have my day of just being in a funk and then I decided that, since there was absolutely nothing I could do about it, I'd deal with the medical commission again in ten days.  (I have since gone back twice and am now officially medically cleared after two months!)

The moral of this story.. It isn't all sunshine and roses, sometime you deal with the blowing sand and cacti too. Expect it if you live over seas.  Know the signs for adults and children.  Find a support system that you can trust - you can not go it alone.  Watch for it and allow yourself (children, spouse, co-workers) time to vent/cry/be annoyed/etc.  You will move on and find ways to deal or you will not make it.  It really is that simple. 


Here are some helpful lists if you (or someone you know) is moving/living as an ex-pat:

Common physical symptoms of culture shock can include:

• Fatigue, malaise
• Generalized aches and pains
• Increase in illness or accidents
• Excessive need for sleep or inability to sleep
• Overeating or lack of appetite/excessive dieting
• Abuse of drugs and/or alcohol

Some psychological symptoms can include:

• • Sadness
  • Loneliness
  • Homesickness
  • Idealizing the home culture
  • Stereotyping host culture nationals
  • Dissatisfaction with life in general
  • Loss of sense of humor
  • Sense of isolation, withdrawal from society
  • Overwhelming and irrational fears related to the host country
  • Irritability, resentment
  • Family conflict
  • Loss of identity
  • Feelings of inadequacy or insecurity
  • Negative self-image
  • Developing obsessions (health, cleanliness)
  • Cognitive fogginess, lack of concentration
  • Depression
    
    
    There's no fixed timeline for when culture stress will hit (or if it will hit), or how long it may take to begin recovery and adjustment.  I know (for me) that knowledge is power, so the more information I have about what to look for, the better off I am. 
    
  

Here are some tips that I liked on minimizing the effects of culture shock - you can read more here.

1. Be prepared
   Knowing that culture shock exists and that it will probably affect you will make it easier to accept. (Remember that reverse culture shock is likely to occur when you return home)
    
2. Adjust your expectations
   Realize that many things will be done differently here. Examine your assumptions about how they should be done, reflect on what is happening and be willing to adjust your expectations and behavior.
    
3. Develop social networks
   It is important to have people around you to share experiences, laugh with and to give mutual support.
    
4. Keep active and stay positive
   Keep physically active, take the opportunity to discover the Netherlands and  try out new things. This will help keep you positive and confident, and benefit your study as well.
    
5. Keep in touch with home
   Especially in the beginning, regular contact with family and friends at home can help you adjust to the unfamiliar environment. Try not to complain too much! Be aware that excessive contact with home can hinder the adjustment process!
    
6. Give yourself time to adjust
   It can take some time to get used to the new environment and to develop a routine that suits you. You may also need time to get used to the study approach at Leiden University.
    
7. Seek help if necessary
   If  you find that your symptoms are persisting or interfering too much with your daily life, it can help to talk to someone about your situation. The student counseling service has trained counselors who can help you.

Eid al-Adha

Today we celebrated Eid al-Adha here in Qatar with friends.  It is the "festival of the sacrifice" where Muslims recall the trials of Abraham and sacrifice an animal (sheep, camel, goat etc.) to remind them of his willingness to sacrifice his own son in obedience to God.  (In the end, God provided an animal for him to sacrifice sparing his son.)  There are differences between the story of Abraham in the Bible and Ibrahim in the Qur'an, but the general idea is the same.  I won't go into the differences here (feel free to ask if you'd like clarification).

This is the big festival for Muslims, a time to be with family, enjoy traditional foods, and wear new clothing (get gifts).  This past week was much like the lead up to Christmas in the States.  The stores were crazy busy, driving was hectic (more than usual), people were busy making preparations, and doing their last minute shopping before everything shut down for a nice long holiday break.  We made plans to celebrate the Eid with some good friends who are also far from their families.  Holidays just don't have the same flair when you are away from family and traditions that really make the holiday special. 

It is a really great experience to be invited into someone's home on one of their most important holidays.  Although we don't celebrate this specific holiday, it was an honor to prepare food, buy gifts, get dressed up, and share in something really special to our friends.  I was reminded as I was thinking about the meaning of Eid al-Adha that just as God had provided an animal for Abraham to sacrifice, so He provides for us daily.  Specifically, He's provided us with good friends to enjoy, a lovely place to live and work, food to eat, a car to drive.. and on and on... 

We are blessed. 

Eid Mubarak from Qatar!

P giving baby H a little lamb toy, just like her big one.

Friends.

A and A in their djellabas

A delicious meal. 

Some cookies I made for Eid.  Probably not a very traditional dessert, but yummy anyway.

A pouring the tea. 

A month...

Today marks one month since we left the hectic packing of our life, familiar sites and sounds, amazing friends and family, and everything that didn't "fit" for a tiny desert country in the Middle East.  It seems like we've been here for quite a bit longer than one month... not sure if that's good or not. 

I remember when I first moved to Morocco like it was yesterday, although it's been much much longer.  After a month, I was so culture shocked and green I hardly wanted to leave my apartment.  I didn't own a car and wouldn't have driven if given the opportunity anyway.  I had barley oriented myself to my street, let alone any other parts of the city, and was quite happy never to go exploring.. ever.  I had figured out how to gesture to the veggie/fruit/meat vendors to get what I wanted, but had NO idea what the pricing was nor did I care if they were robbing me blind ("very good price for you")...   I remember my utter shock when I ordered chicken from the (outdoor) vendor and was greeted with a whole chicken..  My trauma must have shown because he immediately whisked it away and brought it back de-feathered and packaged up. Never mind my further trauma when I arrived home to realize the innards were all still... well.. in.  I quickly learned to motion to take out the innards after that, which totally blew the vendor's mind (that I didn't want 'best part').  I was totally intimidate to utter the few French words/phrases that I had rolling around in my head and Arabic was.. well totally foreign. 

After a few years, I was a much different being than the one who had stepped of a plane wondering what she'd gotten herself into.  I was a confident driver, teacher, shopper, speaker (well close), bargainer...  I fell head over heals for the culture, the cuisine, the language..  Later, I met my A when he came to teach and some of my life-long friends are from my time in Morocco.  It holds a substantial place in my heart.

Arriving here, in Doha, was much much different...  Obviously, I have A and the littles.  The first evening, my anxiety was tremendous remembering how difficult the transition to life had been in Morocco and knowing that somehow I had to do it a whole lot quicker this time.  A reassured me that we'd take it one day at a time, and after a good night sleep, I felt much better.  The first day here, I went grocery shopping, unpacked a lot, made a spaghetti dinner (only using a fork and sauce pan), and took a walk with the kids.  As time has progress, so has the speed of our transition.  We got our rental car a few days after arriving, and have steadily explored the city since.  It is a much smaller city, which helps.

So, what's the difference?  I think the biggest factors are 1) that I have a husband and kids who depend on me (I don't have the time to panic..  kids must eat, play, and have my attention) 2) I have a husband to help me (this is invaluable) 3) I'm older (oh so much older.. and somehow my flexibility has grown with age), and 4) we have had loads of transitions over the past decade or so.  That last one is without a doubt helpful.  We've come to rely on each other a great deal because of our many transitions.  Family is what's been constant.  We have friends from each place, whom we love dearly, but on a day-to-day basis, we are together.  We've also learned that we will adjust and adapt to whatever our surroundings may be and that our outlook will have a tremendous impact on our experiences in any given place. 

There are rough moments/days.. there will be more, but for now we are adjusting, adapting, and taking one day and one experience at a time.  The first month has been good and I expect that the coming months will continue in that direction.  Ups and downs will come, but I feel like we have a decent handle on approaching the downs.  Time will tell! 

The market...

One of the things I reminisce about Morocco is the open air markets.  I really enjoyed shopping for vegetables from one vendor, fruits from another, fresh flowers at another stall...  "Our" vendors knew us and there was a certain comfort in that.  There was room for bartering, I love bartering..  so when I found out there was a fruits and veggie market here in Doha I was super pumped.  We decided to take a look last Saturday morning.  The kids made lists, we got our "hot weather gear" ready (hats, water bottles, ice packs and towels for car seats, sun screen, light clothing..), and we were off.

P and M with their lists.

Love the site of fresh fruits.. 

It was hot.. too hot to be out really, but luckily there was shade over the whole market, which does help.  We found what we wanted and the selection was good.  After a few minutes though, the heat was too much for the kids and we had to go, but I look forward to going back as it is much cheaper than the grocery stores.  They did like getting to tell the vendors what they wanted and the vendors loved talking to them.  I think I'll just go without the kids until it cools off and then they'll be ready to explore again. 

Cooling off in the car with ice packs and water.

On eating with your hands...

We received an invitation to have lunch at the home of a student from A's new school.  We were pretty excited and wanted the kids to join as we hadn't been to a Qatari's home yet.  It was a great time and his student was an excellent host. 

The lunch started off with sweets (cakes, fruits etc.), coffee, and tea in the majlis (which is a large room with loads of seating and small tables for cups and plates..  Very lovely room.  When lunch was ready, we were ushered into the salon (living room) where we were greeted with two massive trays filled with fragrant saffron rice topped with (freshly killed) extremely tender lamb (

A favourite dish is Matchboush, which is meat cooked until it is incredibly tender, and served with spices and rice. - See more at: http://www.qatarvisitor.com/culture/qatar-food#sthash.WOwM0WT2.dpuf

A favourite dish is Matchboush, which is meat cooked until it is incredibly tender, and served with spices and rice. - See more at: http://www.qatarvisitor.com/culture/qatar-food#sthash.WOwM0WT2.dpuf

A favourite dish is Matchboush, which is meat cooked until it is incredibly tender, and served with spices and rice. - See more at: http://www.qatarvisitor.com/culture/qatar-food#sthash.WOwM0WT2.dpuf

matchboosh - the name of the dish).  Places were set for each of us with various drinks, yogurt (like a soured milk drink), dates, and salad.  The presentation was beautiful. 

The view from above.

The massive plate when we were just about done.. Lots and lots of food!

Mr. D helping us with the meat.

Friends and food.. Fun time.

There were plates and forks provided as we are all from countries that do not use the common plate for eating, nor do we eat with our hands (mostly).  But we figured, "when in Qatar..." and did it the Qatari way with our hands.  The nice thing is that both A and I had previous common plate experiences in Morocco.  Here are some tips if you ever find yourself dining from a common plate in this part of the world:

• Always begin with clean (well kept hands - clip nails etc.).
• Use the right hand only.
• Most people only use three fingers (maybe four) to scoop up rice and meat (or whatever is offered).
• The thumb is used as a scoop to push food into the mouth.
• Only eat what is in front of you on the plate, don't reach over someone else.  Imagine the place cut like a pie (in wedges), what's in front of you is your lane.. Stay in your lane. 
• If an elder reaches over ... no problem.
• The host will usually be the one to cut up and distribute meat; eat what is put before you.
• Don't lick hands while eating.  You don't even need to put your fingers into your mouth as you can use your thumb to sort of pop the food in. 
• When finished, wash your hands in the washroom.  (In some places the host will provide a wash station at the table.)
• All food should not be finished.  If there is food left, the host provided more than enough.  There is usually MORE than plenty as you can see from the pictures.  It honors the host to have prepared more than enough.

Neither P nor M wanted anything to do with eating with their hands or eating the food presented and I've made a habit of not pressuring them to try or do new things just yet.  A and I (along with the other guests) ate and enjoyed (first time with lamb..).  After about 10 minutes, M decided he did want to try it after all.  He LOVED the food and after the first couple of bites (me feeding him by hand), he lounged on my lap and let me feed him by hand like a baby bird.. Good grief, that kid could get used to that pretty quickly...  After M, P decided she wanted a turn.  She had several bites of rice, but didn't want to try the "chicken."  We call all meat chicken as that's all the kids have been exposed to, just makes it easier especially as P's favorite animal is a baaaa sheep...  I just love how they are coming out of their shells and are enjoying these new experiences.

After the meal, we washed up and headed back to the first room for more sweets, tea, coffee, and conversation.  After a while, our host's older brother came in with a container full of incense.  He brought it to each person and you were expected to waft it at yourself a couple of times.  He explained that it helps remove the smell of food from each person.  It smelled great and really did work to get rid of any meaty smells...  It was a really fun cultural experience and we learned a lot from the few hours spent in a Qatari home.  Amazing hospitality, great food, new friends... A good day for sure.  

Tea and sweets time. Such a lovely room.

Chocolates.. P was in heaven.

Cakes, tea, and coffee.  The mint tea was amazing!

M's try at photography!

Tea and sweets..  Took me back to Morocco days.

Visitor and the Suq..

We've been here for about three weeks.  It seems much longer to be honest.  We've been driving since the first week, been to three malls, play groups, got a driving license, A has been through three weeks of orientation/planning at work, the apartment is set up, the city is starting to look familiar, we've had dinner guests and been dinner guests, been to the Embassy, and most recently had our first visitor. 

My first years (2) in Morocco, I was roommates with L (and a couple of other ladies too).  She is a really great friend and over the past twelve years our friendship has grown into one that no matter how long it is between visits, we are able to pick back up where we left off...  I just really enjoy our friendship a lot.  We haven't been together in about three years (M was just a wee little man), and I was itching for a visit when I got an email letting me know she'd be flying through Doha (from Kenya to London) and had day layover!  My initial thoughts were a little nervous because I knew we'd only have been here three weeks and wasn't sure how much getting around we'd be able to do, but I was so excited to see her that it didn't matter.

The kids and I loaded up to head to the airport early hoping we'd avoid the rush traffic and make it to the airport to pick up L just after she made it through immigration..  um no..  Between construction, the GPS being more than directionally challenged, and amazing amounts of traffic... we arrived at the airport quite late, but unscathed.  In typical L style, she hopped in the car (after a long wait) and off we went, catching up for lost years as quickly as possible.

Music teacher L with M and the music bin..

We spent the morning (what was left of it) at our apartment (getting home was way easier) catching up over peanut butter pita bread and after a quick nap (for L), we headed to the clubhouse for lunch.  Delicious food, more conversation (I got to hear all about L's amazing recent adventure visiting Congo - traveling two nights and days in a large canoe down the Congo River...), another nap, and we picked up A from work and headed to Suq Waqif to explore.  The last time L and I were in a suq (marketplace/bazaar) together was years and years ago in Morocco, so it was really fun to explore the suq here (our first time going) together.  The suq here is built to resemble the old suqs.  There are a few subtleties that give away the modernity of it, but it is still a fun experience.

L's lunch.. So pretty and so tasty.. wow

The thing I like about suqs is the experience of a total bombardment of one's senses, and Suq Waqif was no exception.  The bright colorful fabrics down one alley, the ornately painted pottery down the next, tiny golden camels brightly decorated, beautiful artwork everywhere... the eyes are pleased and overwhelmed around every turn.  Spices in heaps in one shop, incense burning in front of another, food simmering in a plethora of delicious restaurants...  the nose is delighted.  Sellers welcoming you to "step in and have a look," traditional dancing and "chanting" being performed on a stage, the local mosque call beckoning people to enter and pray... the ears are enchanted.  A million tiny things to touch at every corner enhances the experience and P and M were especially delighted with each little trinket to touch and hold.  ("hands down" was a mute point.. it wasn't happening)  The flavors at the Lebanese restaurant we chose amazed us.  The hummus was smooth, the homemade bread puffy and delicious...  It was a delightful trip to the suq and we will be back for artwork, pottery, and perhaps some carpets when the weather cools a bit. 

The front of Suq Waqif.

Suq

Want one?

One of my favorites.  Locally hand painted tiles. 

Love.

So colorful and textured.

There will be one in my apartment soon.

A*MA*ZING (spice blend)

The smells are amazing.

Traditional dance and chant.

So delicious..  Hummus, Fattoush, Baba ganoush, fresh bread. 

So good..  I can never get homemade pita to puff like that..

P and M's meal, they insisted on a picture..  Chicken kabobs (amazing seasoning) and fries.

Hungry??

She needed a picture taken.

The chandelier at the restaurant.  

M too, but not without A.

She just HAD to get on that lion.

Love the look..

No outing is complete without M finding some type of rescue vehicle.

This is one of P's favorite buildings (not the suq, but close).  She says it looks like a cupcake with swirly frosting and even a cherry (red light) on top! 

One of the cool things (literally) about this suq is that areas actually feel air conditioned because of the shops that line each side of the alley ways.  As people enter and exit, they let a bit of cool air escape and it really makes a difference. 

We drove home, did some more chatting, ordered L a taxi for 3:00 am and went off to sleep.  I woke up around 4:15 and L was already gone (stinking am vs pm on the alarm!)...  It was a totally awesome day and I can't wait to see that lovely lady again soon!!

Thanks L for making an effort to be here for the day, we love you and can't wait to hear about your adventures in London. 

L and I at dinner

So... who's coming next???